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Marcescense a bit of a mystery?

What is marcescense? Marcescence is the holding on to dead leaves and dead plant material during winter. This happens to particular species of Deciduous trees such as beech and oak (this is a bit peculiar as the word deciduous comes from the latin for falling off more on that later) So what should happen?

In the Autumn the leaves of deciduous trees undergo many changes. The chlorophyll is lost the leaves stop making sugars and the there is a change in plant hormone levels this a signal to the base of the leaf stalk to start to seal up. This is done with a corky like layer which protects the scar left as the leaves drop preventing infection. In marcescent trees this process is incomplete and the leaves remain attached although in some cases tenuously, these leaves are then pushed off in the spring by new growth.

Marcescence
Marcescence exhibited by Beech

So what’s going on here? One of the reasons trees lose there leaves in winter is to protect themselves from storm damage. So What are the reasons for this marcestent trait well there are some clues, the age of the tree or part of the tree seem to be important as young trees or young parts of the tree seem to exhibit increased marcescence.

although there is no clear and proven reason that explains marcescence so the answer is not sure.

Having said that there are a number of theories as to why trees might exhibit Marcescence.

Marcescence
Marcescence exhibited by Oak

It may help to protect there buds from browsing herbivores the marcescent leaf hides the new buds which are a food source for these herbivores. it has also been suggested that the herbivores may nibble and taste the dry leaves. The leaves are bitter due to certain chemicals which are present in them this may then make the animal learn to leave this plant alone.

It could be to protect the young growth form frost as having the leaves present shields the new buds, or it may enable the traping of deep snow as these trees often grow on dry sites having a little extra water from snow melt may help kickstart there growth in the spring.

Or It could nutrient related

Another reason could be a means of increasing nutrient recycling as by keeping the leaves until the spring when they do fall they can form a mulch and be broken down supplying nutrients as well as keeping the base of the trees moist as mentioned previously these trees often grow on dry sites these sites are often nutrient poor as welll, it has been shown that by holding onto the leaves there is an increase in photo degradation this is important as some marcescent species leaves do not decompose well and the extra light may make the eventual decomposition easier(aromatic compounds). it could also be that by dropping the leaves in spring with the extra warmth the decomposition process by fungi and bacteria would be quicker and it may also be useful to fungi that may then be beneficial for the growing tree.

Or it could be a mixture of all the mentioned theories or may be something else not looked at yet. As I mentioned at the beginning these trees are meant to be deciduous losing there leaves and in the main there are but both beech and oak are related and some of there other relations are not deciduous so marcescence could be an in between stage as these trees have not gone completely down the deciduous route it may be a vestigial trait.

Vestigal or not marcesent trees can provide a protective winter habitat for birds as well as having benefit for invertebrates giving them access to places to overwinter. As well as being pleasing to look at and listen to when the wind blows in the winter forest.

Hemiparasitic plants pretty little thieves.

Whilst in Pyrenees preparing for a International mountain leader assessment I came across some Eyebrights (Euphrasia spp) I had seen these plants before back home in the Chilterns and whilst researching for more information on them I found out that they where Hemiparasitic, I already knew that there where parasitic plants such as Broomrape so some further reading was needed.

What are Hemiparasitic plants? The prefix Hemi means half so they are half parasites but what does that mean? Most plants gain their energy through photosynthesis and acquire water and nutrients from the soil directly or through symbiotic associations with fungi. There are plant parasites which gain their energy and nutrients from other plants however the Hemiparasitic plants which are green, perform photosynthesis but at the same time attack the vascular systems of other plants and exploit the host sap for both mineral nutrients and water.

Hemiparasitic plants have reduced or non existing root networks and attach to the roots of other species via specialised plant structure called haustoria (meaning to draw or absorb water) these attachments have the effect of weakening the host and often during drought conditions the Hemiparasitic plants appear more green than their hosts.

This ability to suppress host species growth and affect nutrient flows in ecosystems results in these plants being considered keystone species or ecosystem engineers, regulating the structure and function of host communities altering the plant community allowing more diversity so not only theives, but robin hoods too. An example of the altering process can be seen with Yellow rattle (Rhinanthus minor) which feeds of grasses weakening them and allowing other wild flower plant species to grow in meadows increasing plant and other species diversity.

Hemiparasitic species occur in many ecosystems and appear both here in the UK and in Europe in both lowland and upland environments. here are a select few that I have come across.

Common cow wheat (Melampyrium Pratense)

This plant is found on acidic soils of woodland edges, heaths and upland moors it has golden flowers and narrow pointed leaves. It parasitises mainly woody plants in lowland environments such as Oak, Beech and Rowan, in heath and upland areas Bilberry, Heather and Bog Myrtle.

The nectar of Common cow wheat can only be reached by insects with long proboscis and it is the larval food plant of the rare Heath Fritillary butterfly, it also has a interesting relationship with wood ants, the flowers attract the ants with sugar and the elaiosome (seeds) of the plant resemble the cocoons of the ant and they disperse the seeds as they take them back to there nests, as the ants don’t take the seeds very far the plant is an indicator of ancient woodland.

The genus name Melampyrum, is translated to black wheat this is in reference to the fact that if seeds are included with wheat or other grain and used to make bread the bread becomes discoloured (blackened). The second part of the name pratense means ‘of meadows’.

Cow wheat

Yellow rattles (Rhinanthus spp)

Yellow rattles (Rhinanthus spp) have tube like yellow flowers and are found in nutrient poor meadows in the UK and in Europe including alpine areas. The yellow rattles parasitises on grasses and vetches and in doing so it weaken allowing other more delicate species to come through and become established increasing species diversity.

The yellow flowers fade in the late summer and the brown seed capsules in which the seeds are can be heard to rattle when walking through or in the breeze hence its common name of rattle.

As well as reducing the growth of grasses the plant itself is a food plant for a number of moth species and the flowers are attractive to a number of bumble bee species.

The name Rhinanthus is translated to nose flower a reference to the shape of the upper lip of the flower, some say the the flowers look like canaries hatching.

Yellow rattle (Rhinanthus spp)

Eyebright (Euphrasia)

Eyebright (Euphrasia) species are found in many different habitats from coastal locations to high on mountains.

There are many different species which are difficult to distinguish as there are many hybrids, but most have small white flowers 5 to 10 mm with purple coloured veins and yellow central spot, some have more purple tinged flowers. They are parasitic on grasses reducing there growth and allowing the growth of other plants which would have been crowded out.

The name Eyebright is said to be derived from the Greek for Euphrasia which translates as to gladden and to gladden the eye, although it could be from its use by medieval herbalists to treat eye disorders or that the flowers look a little like eyes.

Eyebrights are Food plants for the pretty Pinion and Heath rivulet moth in the uk and are a nectar source for a number of bumblebee species and other insects.

International Mountain Leader Summer Assessment Pyrenees Orientales

sunshine, a little stress, rope work practice and a few wild flowers…

Last summer I passed my summer International Mountain Leader (IML) assessment – It was a mixture of enjoyment and stress. I was out in the Pyrenees for 10 days prior to the assessment, keen to get out and about in the area to familiarise myself with the mountains and the local environment. Over those 10 days I joined other aspirants for days out, where we tried to increase our knowledge of the local environment and practice other areas of the IML syllabus; I was hoping that this would be very helpful and indeed it was. I also managed to get out for a few solo journey days that unfortunately seemed to coincide with the rain and everybody else having some home paper work to do.

picture of high summer pasture
High summer pasture
International Mountain Leader Summer Assessment picture of butterfly on Carline thistle
Small blue butterfly on Carline Thistle

The assessment itself lasted four days, the first day being a day walk in and around the stunning limestone La Caranca gorge, with its mixture of trees and wildlife. We were assessed on a few parts of the syllabus including navigation, where I made a slight navigational error on my second leg, which I immediately remedied. The main focus of that first day was on rope work, security on steep ground and fixed equipment, where we all seemed to have nervous, anxious and at times, clumsy clients.

International Mountain Leader Summer Assessment picture of Praying Mantis in the La Caranca gorge
Local resident of the Gorge

The second day we began a three day two night mountain journey, which included two nights in mountain huts. The first day was the longest, with each aspirant taking it in turns to lead the group – this included small detours to avoid cows and patous along the way. We had lots of relocation during this part of the assessment and a few five minute talks, finishing the first day of the mountain journey at a hut in a stunning location.

The following day we journeyed over more steep ground with a traverse of the Perics. This particular day I found very enjoyable, as we all got turns to lead the group and demonstrate our knowledge and skills of looking after clients on steep ground. With an occasional question from the assessor, I also got to deliver the first of my hill talks, ‘Alpine plant adaptations’. We then had further assessments in using a rope to get people up a difficult rock step on the way to the second hut. I was now beginning to feel a lot more positive about passing. and enjoyed a beer in the sunshine outside another beautiful hut.

International Mountain Leader Summer Assessment a picture of Le Grand Peric mountain
Le Grand Peric
International Mountain Leader Summer Assessment picture of the view from near the refuge camporells
View from near the Refuge Camporells of the Perics

The final day was shorter, back to where we started, following the now familiar pattern of taking it in turns to lead the group, and enthuse about our surroundings. I was also able to deliver the second of my hill talks, ‘Altitudinal belts in the Pyrenees’. We all by now had an idea of whether we had passed due to the daily feedback that we had been receiving and this lead to a more relaxed day.

All in all the International Mountain Leader Summer Assessment was an enjoyable experience, if not a little stressful. I was particularly happy that I had gone out prior to the assessment to bank and reenforce my knowledge.

Whilst out with others preparing I Came across many flowers and I am going to follow this post up with a write up of a few.

picture of Hemp nettle
Hemp nettle

IML security on steep ground workshop in the Lakes

Do you want to save your clients up 25% of their energy expenditure? And tidy up and practice your security on steep ground? Then security on steep ground workshop with Chris Ensoll would be a good place start. I attended this very thought provoking steep ground workshop, I thought I would write an overview of what we covered.

Chris started with a brief discussion of the biomechanics of how people walk and how this can be affected under stress; he explained that as humans we are ‘rear wheeled drive animals’ with most of our power coming from the large muscle groups in the legs supported by the core muscles. He continually emphasised the importance of body position.

Chris then wanted us to do a quick test of our walking styles going both down and uphill. After moving through the gate going onto the hill, we stopped to briefly talk about the Ragwort, before moving to a stream and performed the same test walking down to the stream and back up the other side. With everybody else watching, this felt a little odd. Back up on the other side we talked about the different aspects of firstly, how to descend and how to position your body if steep; think John Wayne, or if you’re younger, Chris has heard it described as a ‘Pimp swagger’. Then in ascent, again emphasising the importance of body position and using your body correctly, and where to put your feet to maintain a strong and stable position. The importance of being in the right position was illustrated and discussed, and this simple test and discussion could really assist some clients enjoy their day out on the hills more.

Cinnabar moth on Ragwort
Cinnabar moth on Ragwort

There followed more exercises involving moving up the slope on rocks with both hands behind your back, again with more emphasis on body position and using your feet and legs correctly. Arriving at a small spot of scree, there was a discussion on how to move across iCt, with your groups. Think Gimely and Legolas: compact down and then tread lightly. Once up and over the scree on a level spot, Chris started a discussion about spotting and how to be in the position of maximum effectiveness but also the limitations.

Security on steep ground
Rope Techniques for steep ground

The discussion then moved on to talking about ropes: the length and the diameter and the pros and cons of the different types. Moving on from this, we looked at anchors and their selection. Knots were also discussed, with Chris illustrating a method to tie a bowline which impressed us all. Having got the ropes out we practiced leading and supporting clients using the rope – keeping it tight, held in both hands ready to get into position to stop a slide, building on the good body position and being in the position of maximum effectiveness. Having made progress up and down over various slopes, we examined ways to get down using the rope; making an improvised harness and lowering, as well as abseil methods.

On arriving back we adjourned to a pub for a debrief, where we noted down the masses of information and discussion points that had come up during the day. It had been a very good and informative experience, learning not only from Chris but the other members present too.

Thanks too Stuart Smith for organising the day

Spring wild flowers


Over the last few weeks whilst out and about walking in the countryside – often on the way to meet DofE groups, I have been noticing the spring wild flowers that have been growing. I have been trying to identify them with the hope that a bit of background identification will help when learning to identify some of the alpine plants that I will need for my upcoming summer IML assessment.

Wild flowers often have interesting names and stories associated with them, so I have chosen a few Spring wild flowers to write about here with the hope that I can remember them in the future.

Wood anemone:

Wood Anemone
Wood anemone

Anemone nemorosa is a stunning plant; a member of the Buttercup family, Ranunculaceae grow in woodlands where the flowers bloom in spring between March and May before the woodland canopy becomes to dense. Like other members of the buttercup family, the flower is not made up of petals but sepals and the seeds are mostly infertile. The plant spreads slowly through the growth of its roots and by a myrecochory, which is the removal of seeds by ants – they are attracted to the seed by a fleshy fat attached called elaiosome, therefore dispersing the seed. The wood anemone is named after the wind god Anemos, who sent his anemones in spring to herald his arrival. They have a few other names: windflower, wind crowfoot and smell fox. The plant is considered toxic, containing the chemical Protoanemonin, which is a a strong anti microbial and causes paralysation of the nervous system. In the past herbalists would use it to treat headaches and as a rubifacient and also in the treatment of leprosy.

Dog violets:

Spring wild flowers Dog violets
Dog Violets

Viola riviniana is a common wild violet growing in woods, hedgebanks, pastures, mountain rocks and flowers from April to June. Related to other violets and pansies, the ‘dog’ in the name means that it lacks scent, as opposed to sweet violets. ‘Dog’ is a common prefix for distinguishing an inferior species. Although named as inferior, it is very important for several fritillary butterflies, including the Small Pearl-bordered, the Pearl-bordered and the Silver-washed Fritillaries, because they lay their eggs on it. The plant is edible like other violets, and the leaves and flowers can be eaten and cooked – the leaves are a rich source of vitamin A.

Pasqueflower:

Spring wild flowers a picture of Pasqueflower
Pasqueflower

Pulsatilla vulgaris is a striking purple flowering plant, another member of the Buttercup family, Ranunculaceae. It grows in undisturbed chalky or limestone soils, flowering at the end of March through to May. It is a rare plant in the UK, restricted to a few nature reserves. As it flowers at or around Easter ,it is known as the anemone of Passiontide and is the reason for its name “Pasque” (meaning “like Paschal”, of Easter). Legend has it that the flowers sprang up in places that had been soaked in the blood of Romans or Danes, because it often appears on old barrows and boundary banks. Like other members of the Ranunculaceae, it is poisonous, but in the past it was a popular medicinal herb and was put to use against a number of different aliments, such as a remedy for warts and even in the treatment of plague in many countries.

Greater Stitchwort:

Spring wild flowers Picture of Greater Stichwort
Greater Stitchwort

Stellaria holostea is a member of the carnation family and grows in woodland, roadside verges and grassy banks. It flowers from March to June and has other names, such as Star of Bethlehem, old mans bones and snapdragon. The seed pods are often heard going pop in late spring. The name stitchwort comes from using an infusion of the plant to treat a ‘stitch’ (as in, runners stitch). The plant is edible and the shoots can be made into salads and the flowers eaten, the roots can also be used, to make a dye. In the past it was thought that picking the flowers would bring on a thunder storm, and in the Southwest it was associated with pixies.

Time flies when …

It has been a while since I last posted and a lot has been going on…

Back in October I attended an International Mountain Leader training course at Plas y Brenin, which, although mostly a training course, does have an element of assessment namely the speed navigation test. I was very apprehensive at the thought of this test, and sitting there on the first morning looking around the room, and then listening to everyone else list off their experience did not help! But, the test itself was mostly easy, finding about 6 flags with a punch to record on the map where you had visited. The features were spread about on Moel Siabod with a time limit of around 3 hours, and I made it back with about 35 minutes to spare. The rest off the course was a mixture of classroom and outdoor activities, covering many aspects of the syllabus really got me fired up to continue.

In November, I had the last of my DofE expeditions with Mud and Maps and also delivering training on a Countryside leader award course in Ashdown forest. I enjoy doing these courses as its good to meet people and listen to their experience, I also really love to help them build on their skills and give some alternative ways of approaching tasks, such as learning how to navigate and emergency procedures.

Early December bought a short trip up to Scotland looking for winter… unfortunately, it was missing when we arrived! But it did put in an appearance on a long trip up Aonach Beag and Beinn Eibhinn Overall still a good trip away.

January arrived and I was off to the alps for International Mountain Leader winter training, which was based in Le Grand Bornand, again provided by the team at Plas y Brenin. There was very little in the way of snow conditions when we arrived, but this did improve during the week with some fresh snow. This was the first time I had used snowshoes and I really enjoyed it! On the course we covered lots, including; avalanche awareness, snow pack analysis, different types of snow and quite a bit on the winter environment, as well as a lot of work with avalanche tranceivers. We were out every day and swapped instructors midweek to get a different perspective. It was a very good week and I learnt a lot.

After my course in January I had some really good feedback from the instructors which was encouraging. Before I can think about going for assessment however, I need to get some more international winter days. So with that in mind, February bought with it a very long weekend trip to the Swiss Jura. A friend and I had four full days of snowshoeing, walking through forests and up onto small summits, often with some outstanding views of the Alps to the south – a very nice area which I would certainly go back to.

So, looking forward, I have a lot of DofE work from a few different providers, some of which are new to me. Then summer International Mountain Leader assessment in the Pyrenees in September, and who knows?

Pegsdon Hills navigation training

Navigation training walk with a client who is preparing for some multi-day ultra running events and wants to improve their navigation skills. Today’s session was mainly getting to grips with relief mastering contour features and recapping from previous sessions.

The walk began from the village of Pegsdon; the whole area is interesting in respect to its history, geology and wildlife. We were soon leaving the village and approaching the first set of hills and marvelling at the large dry valleys which cut deep into the slopes, a result of water running over tundra during the ice age. Once up on the hills we entered a nature reserve where many species of flowering plant are found.

We looked at aspects of a slope from an isolated top, off the main ridge a large lump of more resistant chalk. From this position you could clearly see the barrow ‘knocking knoll’. Apparently, this has been there from Neolithic times and is named according to a myth, said to have come from the chieftain buried in it knocking on his treasure chest.

Having exhausted all the slopes here we moved on recapping some previous sessions, moving through fine scenery until we arrived on Telegraph Hill. This is named as such because the admiralty built a telegraph station here which was part of a communication system that was used during the Napoleonic wars. I got my client to find different features on the the slope and then we made our way towards Noon Hill, briefly walking along part of the Icknield way – an ancient trackway possibly even older than the barrows in this locality.

We worked our way onwards to Deacon Hill, successfully identifying a broad spur, a col and finding a spot height along the way. On arriving at the trig point we stopped briefly to observe the view. After which we continued to locate a few more features, a flat area on a ridge and a re-entrent before returning to our cars. All in all a good and successful day!

Trip to Corrur… not train spotting!

Trip to Corrur… not train spotting!

Friday evening in Euston station was busy, very busy. There had been some problems with overhead wires and there were a lot of disgruntled people who weren’t impressed with two blokes with rucksacks trying to get to the concourse! So we beat a retreat to a local restaurant and returned later to board our train, which being diesel was not affected by the overhead wire issue.

We had opted for the cheap sleeper option, the reclined seats, and finally having got to sleep we were woken to change trains at Edinburgh (thinking now that we should have paid the extra to get a cabin), we got settled in the new carriage and I slept until we arrived in the Highlands. Upon waking I looked out of the window as the dawn slowly broke, enjoying the views. With our stop coming up next, I spoke to the guard and he told us where to stand to get off – a small luggage door. The train arrived at Corrour, the highest train station in Scotland (and features in the film ‘Trainspotting’). we got off with a few other people, the sky seemed to be clearing and the sun came out as we tried not to skate on the ice on the short walk to the SYHA hostel where we would be staying that evening. On arrival at the hostel the guardian meet us and said we could leave some of our equipment which we were not going to need for our upcoming walk, in the bunk room on our beds.

Having sorted and repacked our rucksacks, we set off for the day. The weather seemed to be deteriorating; the higher mountains slowly disappeared in the cloud as we began up a well made track gaining height steadily until we came to a stream crossing. We did not cross the stream, but instead started up the hill in deep wet snow.

The going was initially tough, but we made good progress and began to find firmer patches of snow as we arrived at the ridge that would lead us up to Carn Dearg. Following the broad ridge was easy, although we were in the cloud and visibility was not great, on nearing the summit we meet two people coming off the top, after a brief hello and we arrived on the top the wind had now increased. We did not linger.

Following the ridge away from the summit with the wind at our backs we again made good progress in the snow and soon arrived at Bealach, with the summit of Sgor Gaibhre somewhere above us, in the now snowy, sleety sky. A quick drink and a little food and we began the slow walk up the slope, which seemed to go on a bit, but we soon arrived. The original plan had been to continue over Sgor Choinnich and then down, but the weather was not improving and we would be getting late back to the hostel by continuing on this path. Having told the hostel warden that we would be back just before, or not long after dark, we decided to descend directly down the the col and contour around the mountain, then down and cross a river further down just above a dam.

 

The walk down was hard, the snow was soft and there was a lot of wading/ squirming/ swimming to get through it. We eventually arrived at the crossing point, but the water was too deep even with a cable across the last part, it was just to risky. We descended further and had to find a gate or a crossing in the deer fence, and had a longer walk through partially frozen bog to find a crossing. It was now getting dark, but having crossed the fence it was relatively easy to find a track through the woods down to the edge of the loch, and then the track that would take us back to the hostel. After 3.5km on the track the hostel came into view, lit up against the dark wet night. On entering it was very warm with nearly a full house, after a quick change of clothing and some food we got chatting to the two people that we had seen earlier, they had intended to complete a similar route to ours, but bailed due to the weather. We chatted for a few hours, discussing what we were planning to do the following day and then went to bed, hoping for better weather in the morning.

Maritime Alps Day 2 – forest views and a high pass

We woke to an overcast sky and the forecast of rain and thunderstorms in are part of the Maritime Alps, so whilst pondering what to do we had breakfast. Shortly after, we gave up on the original plan of starting a multi-day walk and decided on a trip to a high col and back the same way, ensuring that if the weather deteriorated we could just come straight back down. After some more general time-wasting, we began the short drive up to Le Boreon, taking the narrow roads that lead to a large car park.

As we arrived in the car park it started to rain; big, fat rain, the type that soaks you really quickly whilst trying to get waterproofs on – as evidenced by other walkers in the same car park, frantically reaching for their waterproofs, or just getting back into their cars and driving off! We sat in the car hoping the rain would pass, and when it did start to ease off, and with waterproofs on, we left the car and started off up the path. The first part of our route followed a short section of the GR52 through some very picturesque woodland and after about 45 minutes the rain cleared and the sun was out.

We emerged from the trees to arrive on a tarmac road and a short uphill walk to a col. After another short tarmac section on the other side of the col, we left the road and were then back into more forest, on a well marked track over some pretty streams, catching glimpses of mountains through the trees.

After about half an hour the trail struck off uphill and we continued steeply at first and then steadily, climbing through the trees. As we gained height the trees began to thin and we soon arrived at some zig zags which lead to a flatter area of Camp Boubran, a large high cwm. Here there were a series of picturesque small lakes with tall mountain backdrops, which we passed as the trail snaked across the floor of the cwm heading for the col on the ridge.

As we approached the headwall of the cwm, we caught our first glimpses of the second world war era bunkers and defences high up on the col and the surrounding slopes. The trail now became steep with plenty of zig zags, the effort was rewarded by increasingly better views of the surrounding mountains, until we finally arrived at the Col de Fremamorte and a view onto the Italian Maritime Alps.

The view into Italy was fantastic; a series of lakes and mountains as far as you could see. It was quite windy at the col and there was a distinct chill in the air, quite a contrast to the day before. We sat out of the wind and had some food, watching groups of Chamois skit about on the rocks. We examined an old barracks building a little way from the Col and wondered what it would have been like to be stationed up here.

With final looks a the view we began the descent back down the way in which we had come. The weather was distinctly overcast on the return journey, with the occasional spot of rain. We had hardly seen anyone since leaving the car park, so it was a surprise to see large groups walking into the forest, by the size of their rucksacks they were probably going to be out overnight.

We soon arrived back at the car and after Sean had put his feet in the icy stream at the car park, and with the weather clearing up, it was time to go and find some tea and cake at the campsite – another good day in the Maritime Alps.

Maritime Alps: day 1 sunshine, flowers and big birds.

The first full day of a two week trip to the Maritime Alps (after we had arrived the day before at Nice, after the initial shock of how hot it was and after having worked out how to drive the hire car!) saw us escape Nice and make it to St. Martin Vesbuie. After a leisurely breakfast at the campsite, we packed our bags and pointed the car towards Col St. Martin, after quite a few hairpin bends

we arrived at the mini resort, during the winter a skiers paradise, now with tourists enjoying coffee and ice-creams and as a bonus, the car park was almost empty!

The walk followed a path that quickly left the resort and moved into the forest. The path is very pleasant – not too steep and mostly in the shade, with the occasional (and increasingly) fantastic views of the surrounding mountains and densely wooded lower slopes. After a few hours of steady uphill, the trees began to thin out and a choice of paths began to open up in front of us. All the junctions up to this point had been clearly marked, but now there were no way markers at all, this was not a problem, just a surprise! After crossing some boulders, we arrived at a small trickling stream surrounded by many wildflowers, and as the path after this seemed steep, we decided that this would be a good stop to have some food.

The path after this point was a little unclear, but the occasional cairn and the odd paint splash marked the way through some steeper terrain until we arrived at a high valley. With the final slope to Col du clot Barrat and the ridge which we were going to follow now visible, the last steps to the Col was quite steep and the increasing altitude was now noticeable – but soon forgotten with the incredible views.

After a short break for photos and more food, we started out along the ridge, at this point we saw the first people since we left the car park, making their way along the upper ridge towards the summit of Mont Pepoiri.

We arrived at a path junction where there was now a clear path to the summit, it was at this point that we noticed a huge bird circling up from below us; a griffon vulture, and it was big! The final push to the top took around a further 10 minutes and we shared the summit with just a few others, the views in all directions were just fantastic. The way down was easy to see: by just following the broad ridge over some other tops.

The initial descent was steep and a little loose, but there were also many beautiful flowers growing amongst the rocks to distract from the impending doom a slip would have caused! We had the ridge to ourselves, as most others had turned off at the first Col, and headed down to a very high placed car park. Descending off the last large top, Tete Du Brec, we encountered a couple who warned us of a group of Pastou’s (mountain guard dogs) looking after a flock of sheep, we duly took their advice and gave the sheep and the dogs a wide berth. Nearing the final Col we noticed a large group of Griffon vultures on the ground, and so had one of the dogs, who ran at them forcing them all to flight. This was wonderful to see: the large birds all soring into the air, it wasn’t so great however to see this very large white dog coming our way! We needn’t have worried though, as it gave us a cursory sniff and then ran off down to the hill to a small shepards building.

Now at the final Col, there was one last slope to climb to the final viewpoint on the ridge Baus De La Frema. We could at this point have turned off, and descended without further delay, and with the sun now gone behind some cloud and a few spots of rain we very nearly did just this, but having talked ourselves round, we began the relatively steep ascent passing clumps of edelweiss, which are always a pleasure to see. The top was marked with a viewing table indicating all the mountains that could be seen from this fine viewpoint, it was also the top of a via Ferrata route and we could see a few people coming up. The rain had gone and the sun was now back out, but there were some ominous clouds not far away, so we began the steep descent, which seemed to go on forever. It was now very warm and the noise of the insects very loud.

We at last made it back into the comfort of the trees and some respite from the sun and soon joined the track we had come up earlier. We arrived back at the Col St. Martin and treated ourselves to some ice-cream, it had been a great, if a little hot, day out and we returned to the campsite discussing what to do next…