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Trip to Corrur… not train spotting!

Trip to Corrur… not train spotting!

Friday evening in Euston station was busy, very busy. There had been some problems with overhead wires and there were a lot of disgruntled people who weren’t impressed with two blokes with rucksacks trying to get to the concourse! So we beat a retreat to a local restaurant and returned later to board our train, which being diesel was not affected by the overhead wire issue.

We had opted for the cheap sleeper option, the reclined seats, and finally having got to sleep we were woken to change trains at Edinburgh (thinking now that we should have paid the extra to get a cabin), we got settled in the new carriage and I slept until we arrived in the Highlands. Upon waking I looked out of the window as the dawn slowly broke, enjoying the views. With our stop coming up next, I spoke to the guard and he told us where to stand to get off – a small luggage door. The train arrived at Corrour, the highest train station in Scotland (and features in the film ‘Trainspotting’). we got off with a few other people, the sky seemed to be clearing and the sun came out as we tried not to skate on the ice on the short walk to the SYHA hostel where we would be staying that evening. On arrival at the hostel the guardian meet us and said we could leave some of our equipment which we were not going to need for our upcoming walk, in the bunk room on our beds.

Having sorted and repacked our rucksacks, we set off for the day. The weather seemed to be deteriorating; the higher mountains slowly disappeared in the cloud as we began up a well made track gaining height steadily until we came to a stream crossing. We did not cross the stream, but instead started up the hill in deep wet snow.

The going was initially tough, but we made good progress and began to find firmer patches of snow as we arrived at the ridge that would lead us up to Carn Dearg. Following the broad ridge was easy, although we were in the cloud and visibility was not great, on nearing the summit we meet two people coming off the top, after a brief hello and we arrived on the top the wind had now increased. We did not linger.

Following the ridge away from the summit with the wind at our backs we again made good progress in the snow and soon arrived at Bealach, with the summit of Sgor Gaibhre somewhere above us, in the now snowy, sleety sky. A quick drink and a little food and we began the slow walk up the slope, which seemed to go on a bit, but we soon arrived. The original plan had been to continue over Sgor Choinnich and then down, but the weather was not improving and we would be getting late back to the hostel by continuing on this path. Having told the hostel warden that we would be back just before, or not long after dark, we decided to descend directly down the the col and contour around the mountain, then down and cross a river further down just above a dam.

 

The walk down was hard, the snow was soft and there was a lot of wading/ squirming/ swimming to get through it. We eventually arrived at the crossing point, but the water was too deep even with a cable across the last part, it was just to risky. We descended further and had to find a gate or a crossing in the deer fence, and had a longer walk through partially frozen bog to find a crossing. It was now getting dark, but having crossed the fence it was relatively easy to find a track through the woods down to the edge of the loch, and then the track that would take us back to the hostel. After 3.5km on the track the hostel came into view, lit up against the dark wet night. On entering it was very warm with nearly a full house, after a quick change of clothing and some food we got chatting to the two people that we had seen earlier, they had intended to complete a similar route to ours, but bailed due to the weather. We chatted for a few hours, discussing what we were planning to do the following day and then went to bed, hoping for better weather in the morning.

Ben Lawers in spring sunshine

This was a quick Solo trip north. When I had planned this I had hoped for some late season snow, but as the date grew closer, it was clear that it would be spring weather.

I arrived in Glasgow on the overnight train from London and quickly transferred to a hire car, and was soon heading north on the A82 under overcast skies. As I drove up to the car park, the cloud began to lift and break allowing sunshine through, the car park was particularly busy but there was just enough space left.

With Rucksack packed and new boots on I was ready to go! I walked over the road to the start and followed a good path into an area of nature trails. The area had been fenced off and was full of small trees and shrubs, I imagined that the whole hillside would have looked like this without the sheep.

The path gently meandered uphill and the views around were improving with every moment as the sunshine now flooded through. I could see the upper slopes of Beinn Ghlas, and soon reached the upper fence of the enclosed area. I passed a few groups, it seems it was going to be a popular walk for today. Once through the fence, the path became a little steeper and soon split, with one path traversing to a col to the north of Beinn Ghlas, with the other ascending the steep slopes of the mountain.

The steep path was my choice and the ascent proper began with improving views. The slope became a broad ridge and I could see groups spread out single file on the upper ridge, they looked very small, indicating that it was still some way to go to the top. The wind now became stronger and there was still a bite, despite the warm sun. The path was more rocky and passed over some snow patches, this led to the upper ridge and I had arrived at the summit of Beinn Ghlas. The summit had a big drop on the north side and still had snow lingering on the edge of the Corrie, the weather was now very clear but the wind was cold and the next mountain, Ben Lawers, dominated the view ahead.

I Descended down to the col and began a steep ascent of Ben Lawers, first through broken rock and then onto a steep slope. There were now only a few groups of people about and I began to think that if this was further south it would be teeming with people. Arriving at the top, I was alone once more and there were good views off the tenth highest mountain in Scotland. A small cloud then covered the sun and the temperature dropped, a reminder that it was still early in the year.

I lingered on the summit for photographs and a quick bite to eat, and then returned to the col and onto the descent path, bypassing Beinn Ghlas. I soon arrived at a col between Beinn Ghlas and Meall Corranich and I was thinking of returning to the car but, as there was still a lot of time and daylight left, I decided to nip off left up to Meall Corranich.

The ascent was very steep but short and I arrived on the summit with not a sole in sight, quite a contrast from earlier in the day. There was now cloud moving in from the north and I had to make the decision whether to go back the way I came, or descend the ridge. The ridge was the choice I made and the lovely walk down marred only by the views disappearing in a shower, which soon passed. Off the ridge and into Coire Odhar, where the sunshine had now returned, I had to find a stile back into the fenced off woodland I had passed through at the beginning of the day. With the stile negotiated it was time for the final kilometre (and a bit) back to the car. Back at the car, it was time to go and find some tea and cake, and check the weather for tomorrow’s walk over at Arrochar.